Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume: 1936-1942 . Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume takes us back to the halcyon days of pre-war California, when the earliest American surfers were busy inventing beach culture. Meet these tussle-haired f
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| Title | : | Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume: 1936-1942 |
| Author | : | |
| Rating | : | 4.85 (581 Votes) |
| Asin | : | 0811821102 |
| Format Type | : | Hardcover |
| Number of Pages | : | 144 Pages |
| Publish Date | : | 1998-06-01 |
| Genre | : |
Imagine surfing a perfect blue wave on a 90-pound redwood longboard, off a deserted beach of sparkling white sand. Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume takes us back to the halcyon days of pre-war California, when the earliest American surfers were busy inventing beach culture. Meet these tussle-haired free spirits who camped on the deserted beaches of Southern California, had lobster bakes and luaus with local Hollywood girls, and surfed at a time when nobody knew what surfing was. The beautiful and nostalgic photographs that surfer Don James took of himself and his friends capture the lost Eden of the California surf dream in all its glory and innocence.
Editorial : Reviews From: Entertainment Weekly Detour USA Today As for the West Coast, it would appear that Californians are too absorbed in turning out Baywatch episodes to establish much of a beach-tome tradition, at least this year. The lone example washing up on these shores is a book of photographs by the late celebrity dentist (and one-time Cary Grant stunt double) Don James called Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume: sepia snapshots of innocent, gorgeous hedonism.
"It was a balmy Sunday and the news about the Japanese attack upon Pearl Harbor was coming in over the radio. We were paying $60 a month for rent, which was split three ways, and life was good. Suddenly everything had changed. We all knew we were going off to war." For the half-decade preceding World War II, photographer Don James and his cronies lived in the balmy Eden of the southern California coastline, surfing from San Onofre north to Point Dume. "Surfing is life all the rest is details," someone once phil
Their basic belief is that America obtained all its riches by stealing it from others and that it must be dismantled and the wealth returned. "In Search of a Warm Room" ist das Ergebnis. They surf, drink beer, and lay on the sand, ride the waves, enjoying life to the fullest-- splendidly isolated from the darkening events of the world.
Beautifully photographed in black and white with some color, it brings back a time before Southern California was choked by overdevelopment and young people could enjoy the sun, water and natural beauty of this state with fear of skin cancer, water pollution and violence.. It all becomes forgettable though it does do a nice setup for the final chapter of the series.. Highly recommended in order to develop a good playing technique !!!. Read his books on the issue, then read opposing views on the issue, read the books of the Armenian propagandists and compare them with the book of Dr. I fully intend to use this for a scrapbook collage when the year is
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